Since debuting his menswear label Antar-Agni at Lakmé Fashion Week’s GenNext show in 2014, Ujjawal Dubey has been a pioneering force in the fashion world. Over the past decade, he has expanded his brand to include womenswear, incorporating a stylish transgender aesthetic that has earned him widespread recognition. His list of accolades is impressive, from winning the Asia Category Regional Round of the Woolmark Prize to being named one of GQ India’s 50 most influential Young Indians and making Forbes India’s 30 Under 30 list in 2017.
A Decade of Antar-Agni: “Two Faced” Collection
Celebrating ten years of Antar-Agni, Ujjawal presented his latest collection, “Two Faced,” at Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI 2024 during Sustainable Fashion Day. True to the essence of his label, this collection explored the complexities of duality, offering a captivating interplay between structure and fluidity, minimalism and ornamentation, and tradition and innovation. Through “Two Faced,” Ujjawal brought to life the many layers of human identity, showcasing designs that resonate with the diverse personalities within us.
Render, Wander, and Surrender: A Journey Through Extremes
The collection was unveiled in three interconnected segments: Render, Wander, and Surrender, each representing a unique facet of human experience.
- Render focused on structured three-piece ensembles, featuring long trenches and layered sets with a Western influence, blending sharp tailoring with contemporary elegance.
- Wander embraced a more ethereal, monastic visual with draped and wrap-around garments, where high-waisted pants on barefoot models symbolized a detachment from materialistic pursuits.
- Surrender merged the dualities of the previous segments, combining structured and flowing elements into expressive headpieces and bold design accents, encapsulating the collection’s overall theme.
A Celebration of Indian Fabrics
Ujjawal’s commitment to Indian textiles remained central to “Two Faced.” He showcased hand-woven cottons from Uttar Pradesh, luxurious silks from Varanasi, rich velvets, and delicate cotton silk blends. Metallic accents and tissue fabrics added a dynamic play of light and shadow to the designs. The color palette—featuring charcoal, black, forest green, and aubergine—was perfect for evening elegance, evoking a sense of nighttime glamour.
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Photo : Perfect Shadows / FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week / RISE Worldwide
Handwork and Fabric Manipulation: Antar-Agni’s Signature
A standout feature of the collection was Ujjawal’s innovative use of abstract handwork, a hallmark of the Antar-Agni brand. Years of subtle experimentation culminated in the refined yet bold designs that moved to center stage in this collection. Sharp tailoring was artfully juxtaposed with drapes, pleats, and layers, creating garments that embodied both structure and fluidity. The use of translucent fabrics played with depth, revealing and concealing in equal measure, while hand-embroidered abstract motifs added tactile richness, further highlighting the collection’s exploration of duality.
A Visionary Designer Reflects on Human Complexity
As Antar-Agni celebrates its 10th year, Ujjawal Dubey’s “Two Faced” collection beautifully captured the complexity and ever-evolving nature of the human spirit. By skillfully merging contrasting elements, Ujjawal once again solidified his place as a visionary in the fashion industry, crafting designs that resonate with authenticity and depth.
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